The Olfactory Families
The ingredients that compose the fragrances develop a theme around which the perfumes grow and develop. The main olfactory families are:
These fragrances are characterized predominantly by citrus notes such as bergamot, lemon, orange, mandarin etc …. Essential oils are obtained by squeezing the citrus’ rind.
Fragrances that can be composed by a bouquet of different flowers or by a single floral note (in this case the note is said “Soliflore”).
The dominant note is wood, such as cedar wood, sandalwood and oud. To this family belongs the camphorated patchouli scent.
ORIENTAL – AMBER
This family gathers sweet, enveloping and persistent scents identified by notes of vanilla, talc, cistus labdanum and very pronounced animal notes.
The fragrance family is named after the perfume Chypre by François Coty. The success of the perfume made him the founder of this olfactory family which includes fragrances based primarily on oak moss, cistus-labdanum, patchouli and bergamot notes.
French word for “fern”, used to evoke an imaginary olfactory note, not found in nature. It reminds the forest’s scent, characterized by the use of lavender, precious woods, musk, coumarin, bergamot and geranium.
Olfactory family characterized by dry notes and accords that recreate the smell of tanned skin, usually accompanied by citrus and floral notes.
Belong to this family mainly fragrances made with aromatic notes as sage, rosemary, lavender, thyme and other herbs typical of the Mediterranean which give freshness and liveliness to the compositions.
The gourmand perfumes are characterized by ingredients derived from foods considered “greedy” such as vanilla, cocoa, caramel, coconut, licorice, hazelnut and milk.
The scents of spiced family are made with dried spices including cinnamon, cloves, marjoram, pepper, ginger, cardamom. The spicy notes add warmth to perfumes.
Extremely lightweight accords, remind to transparent accents such as ozone, air and water, able to express lightness and freshness.
Each family includes sub-family or facets that can be combined to create new compositions.
Depending on the concentration of the components contained inside the fragrance, the scents are divided into the following categories:
- Eau de Solide EdS, low amounts of essential oils (up to 1%), also called eau fraîche;
- Eau de Cologne EdC – 3-5%;
- Eau de Toilette EdT – 6-9%;
- Eau de Parfum EdP – 10-14%;
- Parfum – 15-25%;
Extrait de Parfum – 26-50% – the higher limits are difficult to spray.